The Old Bridge, emblem of the town
What strikes you on arrival is the Old Bridge: four arches of pink sandstone, most probably built at the end of the 13th century, although a parchment kept at the abbey of Conques already mentions a bridge on this spot as early as 1060. Like the bridge in Estaing, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela, and for us it remains one of the most beautiful medieval bridges in the whole Lot valley. We particularly like coming back at the end of the day, when the evening light is reflected in the calm water and the passing tourists have thinned out.
The calquières, memory of a tanners' quarter
Just behind the bridge, on the right bank, stand the old houses of the tanners and tawers, the famous "calquières", with their overhanging wooden galleries suspended above the water. We like to stop on the opposite quay to watch them reflected in the Lot, especially in the late afternoon when the light skims the façades. These houses are a reminder that Espalion long lived from leatherwork: the hides were washed directly in the river, on stepped stone slabs called "gandouliers", designed to remain accessible whatever the water level. It is one of the rare places where you can still see so clearly, with the naked eye, how a whole old craft quarter was organised around the river.
Calmont-d'Olt castle, the fortress watching over the town
If you look up from the centre of Espalion, you will see Calmont-d'Olt castle perched on a volcanic peak more than 500 metres above sea level. A waymarked path leaves from the town centre and climbs to its gates: it is a good walk, but the view over the Lot valley and the roofs of Espalion below more than rewards the effort. It is a medieval fortress now brought to life with live demonstrations (archery, siege engines), which visiting families love. We gladly recommend it to get a little height over the town, provided you allow a good part of the morning or afternoon just for the climb.
Our advice: don't expect to see Espalion in an hour
Espalion is larger than Estaing, which is exactly why we recommend giving it a proper half-day rather than a quick photo stop at the Old Bridge. Between the climb to Calmont-d'Olt castle, a stroll around the calquières and a moment simply sitting facing the bridge watching the water flow by, we would much rather see you leave feeling you really took your time over the town. If you also want to enjoy the river itself, we have written a separate article on canoeing down the Lot, with trips starting from Espalion.