A red sandstone bastide at the crossroads
What strikes you on arriving in Villecomtal is the same warm colour you find in Marcillac-Vallon: the village is built almost entirely of red sandstone, the stone of the Rougier that gives the façades a warm, unmistakable look. Founded in the 13th century, Villecomtal has kept the grid plan typical of medieval bastides, laid out around a central square lined with stone houses. It is a pleasure to wander these well-planned streets, where, despite the centuries, you can still sense the order intended by its founders.
The village has been awarded the "Petite Cité de Caractère d'Occitanie" label, a recognition of built heritage that has stayed coherent, without major modern changes to spoil it. We happily recommend it to guests who have just visited better-known sites and are looking, by contrast, for a village that feels like their own discovery, with hardly any other visitors in the lanes.
The church of Saint-Barthélemy and the castle
In the heart of the village, the church of Saint-Barthélemy is a fine example of local Gothic architecture, its plain silhouette rising above the surrounding roofs. Close by, Villecomtal castle keeps a 15th-century keep, remains of curtain walls and towers pierced with arrow slits, completed by a later 18th-century main building. We like the contrast between the stern defensive parts and the later residential wing, clearly designed for comfort rather than war.
The Espace des Enfarinés, a story we never tire of telling
This is our favourite anecdote about Villecomtal, the one we save for the end of the visit. Housed in a 15th-century building, the Espace des Enfarinés tells the story of a group of local people who, in the early 19th century, rejected the terms of the 1801 Concordat and created their own dissident form of worship, nicknamed "la Petite Église" (the Little Church). The name "Enfarinés" (the floured ones) is said to come from the flour they used to recognise each other in the dark during their secret services. Beyond this religious history, the place, located in the village tourist office, also displays a collection of minerals and fossils gathered locally. It is our best-kept tip: few of our guests think to push open this door, yet a few minutes are enough to discover pieces far more beautiful than you would expect from such a modest place.
How we visit Villecomtal from the cottage
From Gîte de la Viguerie in Pruines, Villecomtal is only a few minutes away, which makes it an ideal stop in the late afternoon, after a busier morning in Conques or the Marcillac vineyard. Allow just under an hour to wander the lanes, see the church and the castle from outside, and look around the Espace des Enfarinés if it is open. We particularly like going at the end of the day, when the low light brings out every shade of red sandstone on the façades. It is also a handy stop if you carry on towards Espalion or Bozouls, two places many of our guests combine on the same day.